من هناك
02-11-2008, 11:59 AM
I've reached Mumbai after a few days in Bangladesh...my thoughts are all over the place - will not necessarily be sending them in sequence.
Here are some more thoughts from Lahore:
- well...my being proud of having fooled the airport pickup driver
into thinking I was from Islamabad was short-lived; everywhere I went
afterwards, people recognized I was a foreigner. The funniest part
was at the Badshahi Masjid, where this short old man (who reminded me
of a desi Asterix...minus the winged helmet), ran after me saying
random words in English, in an attempt to be my guide in the Masjid...
- the Badshahi Masjid was made by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (the
only real Islamic-minded one out of the lot), and can fit 100,000
people. It is a simple, yet beautiful, red brick structure. It's
right outside the old city (conveniently located next to the "Red
Light district", which is also a Shia' area); across the courtyard is
the Shahi Qila (direct translation: Royal Fortress), Shah Jehan's
fortress of laze and luxury. Outside of the Masjid courtyard is the
tomb of Ranjit Singh, nicknamed the Lion of the Punjab, and one of
the major draws for Sikh tourists. More importantly, the great
Islamic poet and philosopher, Allama Muhammad Iqbal, is buried in the
courtyard. I offered Fatihah and made dua' that Allah(swt) bless the
world with another man of his genius; truly, men like him only come
once in centuries...
- the Badshahi Masjid has an upstairs section right by the main
entrance, which claims to have the hair of the Prophet Muhammad(saw)
and the sword of Hazrat Ali(ra). Judging by the amount of hairs
attested to the Prophet(saw) and found in the Indian sub-continent,
they make him out to be very hairy. I also wondered how all these
hairs mysteriously made their way to Lahore and Kashmir (Hazratbal
Masjid)...but I digress from my smart-assedness...
- the Shahi Qila had various places of interest, such as the Shish
Mahal (palace of glass), Diwan-e-Khaas (place where the Emperor would
hold special, important meetings), Diwan-e-Aam (where the Emperor
would hold court and listen to the plaints of the people), Moti
Masjid (Masjid ornamented with rubies), etc. However, the Shahi Qila
is barely even a shadow of its former self: the British cleaned out
every single jewel and precious stones that were embedded in the
incredible designs inside. I failed to find even one piece that they
left behind. Have there been greater pirates and thieves in history
than Europeans?
- Nevertheless, the Mughals were very advanced for their time, with
sophisticated mechanisms in place for water redirection, irrigation,
using its natural force for fountains, room temperature control with
carefully crafted "netted" walls, etc. And Mughal artwork is
outstanding...
- Impressiveness aside, the Mughals luxurious lifestyle is evident -
and undoubtedly holds a significant amount of fault for the state of
Muslims today...
- I also checked out the tombs of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir, his
wife Noor Jehan, and her brother Asif Khan. Asif's tomb is badly
kept; the legend goes that he was a general in Jehangir's army and an
avid womanizer. Every time any of his soldiers or workers got
married, he would first spend the night with the bride. Noor Jehan
kept telling him to stop but he didn't, so eventually she gave him a
bad dua' that eagles and crows would pick at his grave after his
death...or some Mughalesque nonsense like that :)
- I saw the Minar-e-Pakistan in Lahore, the tower where the Pakistan
agreement was first signed. It stands proudly in the city, but
represents a devastating part of history, the cost of which is still
being paid today...
Here are some more thoughts from Lahore:
- well...my being proud of having fooled the airport pickup driver
into thinking I was from Islamabad was short-lived; everywhere I went
afterwards, people recognized I was a foreigner. The funniest part
was at the Badshahi Masjid, where this short old man (who reminded me
of a desi Asterix...minus the winged helmet), ran after me saying
random words in English, in an attempt to be my guide in the Masjid...
- the Badshahi Masjid was made by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (the
only real Islamic-minded one out of the lot), and can fit 100,000
people. It is a simple, yet beautiful, red brick structure. It's
right outside the old city (conveniently located next to the "Red
Light district", which is also a Shia' area); across the courtyard is
the Shahi Qila (direct translation: Royal Fortress), Shah Jehan's
fortress of laze and luxury. Outside of the Masjid courtyard is the
tomb of Ranjit Singh, nicknamed the Lion of the Punjab, and one of
the major draws for Sikh tourists. More importantly, the great
Islamic poet and philosopher, Allama Muhammad Iqbal, is buried in the
courtyard. I offered Fatihah and made dua' that Allah(swt) bless the
world with another man of his genius; truly, men like him only come
once in centuries...
- the Badshahi Masjid has an upstairs section right by the main
entrance, which claims to have the hair of the Prophet Muhammad(saw)
and the sword of Hazrat Ali(ra). Judging by the amount of hairs
attested to the Prophet(saw) and found in the Indian sub-continent,
they make him out to be very hairy. I also wondered how all these
hairs mysteriously made their way to Lahore and Kashmir (Hazratbal
Masjid)...but I digress from my smart-assedness...
- the Shahi Qila had various places of interest, such as the Shish
Mahal (palace of glass), Diwan-e-Khaas (place where the Emperor would
hold special, important meetings), Diwan-e-Aam (where the Emperor
would hold court and listen to the plaints of the people), Moti
Masjid (Masjid ornamented with rubies), etc. However, the Shahi Qila
is barely even a shadow of its former self: the British cleaned out
every single jewel and precious stones that were embedded in the
incredible designs inside. I failed to find even one piece that they
left behind. Have there been greater pirates and thieves in history
than Europeans?
- Nevertheless, the Mughals were very advanced for their time, with
sophisticated mechanisms in place for water redirection, irrigation,
using its natural force for fountains, room temperature control with
carefully crafted "netted" walls, etc. And Mughal artwork is
outstanding...
- Impressiveness aside, the Mughals luxurious lifestyle is evident -
and undoubtedly holds a significant amount of fault for the state of
Muslims today...
- I also checked out the tombs of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir, his
wife Noor Jehan, and her brother Asif Khan. Asif's tomb is badly
kept; the legend goes that he was a general in Jehangir's army and an
avid womanizer. Every time any of his soldiers or workers got
married, he would first spend the night with the bride. Noor Jehan
kept telling him to stop but he didn't, so eventually she gave him a
bad dua' that eagles and crows would pick at his grave after his
death...or some Mughalesque nonsense like that :)
- I saw the Minar-e-Pakistan in Lahore, the tower where the Pakistan
agreement was first signed. It stands proudly in the city, but
represents a devastating part of history, the cost of which is still
being paid today...